You have to stay on your toes in Saigon. Although Guide Books generally regard it as a very safe destination, people always seem to be warning against some imminent danger. "Put your bag ACROSS your shoulders!" "Be careful at ATMs!" "Lock valuables in the Guest House safe," etc... etc... Luckily I had no problems (perhaps because I heeded these warnings - thank you nice guest house lady..). For the most part I found the people in southern Vietnam to be very kind with the exception of their driving habits. Never have I seen a city so devoid of logical traffic organization.
IT'S MADNESS I TELL YOU!!!!
On my first evening in HCMC, I went to run errands and found myself waiting on the sidewalk, unable to cross through two lanes of opposing bumper to bumper speeding motorbikes. Dumbfounded, I looked yearningly at the laundry service directly across the street, waiting 2, then 3, then 4 minutes, until a kindly gentleman took pity on me. He took me by the wrist and guided me across like some kind of invincible super hero -- Ho Chi Moses parting a seemingly insurmountable sea of racing motorbikes. (What? Ok, so I'm wierd).
Nowhwere were we safe from the onslaught of motorbikes. They buzzed irreverently up onto pedestrian sidewalks, transforming them into narrow speedways. They prowled the labyrinthine mazes of the markets with impossible agility. Like the little Pepperidge Farm goldfish on the white paper bag, they boldly braved traffic going the opposite direction at high speed. They randomly parked on the street, forcing pedestrians to walk around and risk the perilous waves of motorbikes. Horns of every kind errupted in a constant chorus. Madness!
Despite the traffic craziness, we had an enjoyable stay in HCMC. We spent one day exploring the city's various parks and museums, including the "Reunification Palace," the equivalent of the South Vietnamese White House, left spookily untouched since the Priminister last occupied it in the late 60s. It looks like a scene straight out of one of the original James Bond movies, complete with long polished conference tables and tacky 60s era wall decorations.
One of HCMC's many parks
We found a wonderful back alley kitchen that made delicious fresh spring rolls and Vietnamese "pancakes" - huge doughy things stuffed with veggies and pork. You wrap the pancakes in mint and lettuce leaves and dip the whole shabang in a delicious sweet sauce.
The following day we took a day trip to the Mekong River Delta. This included a boat ride to several small islands along the Mekong, and coconut candy demonstrations and tastings. (My dream tour! Don't worry - I'm bringing lots home!) For lunch we took the boat to a second island, where we feasted on a frightening pirannha-like fish. We spent some time exploring the island by bicycle before the third boat ride.
Matt: Very afraid of the pirhanna devil fish. (Note the hot pepper in his toothy mouth. It was a nice touch)
Photos from the Mekong River Delta and Floating Markets:
One item for sale at the coconut candy plantation was Vietnamese rice wine. This wine tastes like a rough sake, and is infused with bits of dead decaying animals (it is believed that these animals impart the drinker with power and certain vaguely described "health benefits"). Here are some pictures of different rice wines containing various eesty beasties including snakes and scorpions. The latter picture shows a concoction that contained the remains of a large dead bird floating on top. I offered Matt $100 to take a shot but he refused. (I blame NIH)
The morning we left Saigon, we found the best bubble tea cafe in existence (lychee bubble tea... heavenly). Also I should note that I found a pastry in the shape of a hedgehog. Yes! Before we knew it we were off to the train station to take the overnight sleeper train to Hanoi.
Look -- it's an edible Iggy (my former pet hedgehog)!
1 comment:
i forgot about your hedgehogs!
sounds fun, exotic and delicious. not the hedgehog, but the excursions.
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