I haven't seen such species diversity since my trip to the Great Barrier reef 8 years ago. I kept losing track of time, diving down to get a closer look at a lilac puffer fish or green anenome before realizing that everyone else had already boarded the boat. Guiltily I would swim back as fast as I could to the patiently sputtering boat.
The boat ride over with Chris and Bao
Perhaps most striking was the clarity and color of the water. It sparkled a magnificent transluscent blue. Baby powder-fine white sands and the prevailing shallow bathymetry create this effect. As our boat approached the main island, boats around us had the illusion of being suspended in mid-air above the sandy substrate below.
Such clear water.... Doesn't the boat look like it's hanging, mid-air?...
By the time we arrived and lugged our camping gear ashore I was salty and starving. The Park Service has set up a sort of semi-permanent tent camp on the island that is vaguely reminiscent of childhood summer camp. There is an open air cafeteria, rustic shower facilities, and of course tents!
Ko Surin tent camp and cool outdoor sinks
Everywhere around us Thai families and friends had set up atheir litatle temporary homes, complete with hammocks, bamboo mats, and quain kerosene lanterns. Somewhere nearby somebody strummed a classical guitar rift. Lunch was delicious and made even more satisfying by the appearance of NATR friends. They were helping to conduct an environmental education program in the Park with some local school children.
After lunch I dragged a bamboo mat down to the beautiful horseshoe bay at the edge of the tent camp and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon reading. As the sun and the tide receded, I spent a few hours exploring the exposed reefs and tidal pools around the island. The marine life I saw in those crystal waters captured both my imagination and my cell phone, which I have since replaced with a much less reliable model (sorry family and boyfriend!).
Some creatures from my low tide reef walk: anenomies, clown fish, decorator crab, giant clam, and enormous sea cucumber. The funky rock formations were interesting too.
The full moon rose in the sky, casting shadows on the pure white sand. I scarcely needed the lantern light to distinguish the faces of friends as conversation stretched into the night. We occupied ourselves by excavating an elaborate all-terrain hermit crab race course. Amazing, the activites that occupy creative minds on camping trips.
It's a tense night down at the hermit crab race track...
I abandoned my hot tent in favor of a mat and blanket on the open beach. The beach was much cooler and amazingly faree of mosquitos. It was, however, full of hermit crabs. Though they didn't disturb me as I slept, their tiny tracks dotted the sand around me when I awoke in the morning.
The godzilla of all hermit crabs. Thankfully this one didn't crawl over me in the night while I was sleeping!
The boat back to Kura Buri wasn't set to arrive until 1:30pm, so I signed up for a second snorkel trip with Marion (the latest arrival at NATR). Because we were able to borrow snorkel gear from friends, the cost was only $2 for a four hour trip! On the way back to shore, we spotted a pod of fin whales resting in the protected waters nearby. The captain steered our longtail very close (too close, I'm sure) to the massive peaceful animals. When they had had enough of our pesky presence, those peaceful giants waved goodbye with their great flukes and moved on. I would have liked to stay a second night with the NATR folks at Ko Surin, but felt irresistably compelled to get back to Klong Naka for more data.
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